From Heritage to Trend: Aso-Oke finds new life in contemporary fashion

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By Joshua Olomu

Once reserved for weddings, chieftaincy ceremonies and grand occasions, Aso-oke โ€“ the hand-woven Yoruba fabric steeped in heritage โ€“ has found new life on the global fashion stage.

The fabric, hitherto, worn by the Yoruba, during special occasions, is no longer just a cultural emblem but a style statement redefining modern Nigerian fashion.

The News Agency of Nigeria (NAN) reports that the once-occasional fabric has become an everyday essential, blending seamlessly with denim, Ankara, and even silk.

Speaking with NAN in Abuja on Monday, a cross section of fashion designers, enthusiasts, fabric vendors and other stakeholders in the clothing industry expressed excitement over the resurgence of the fabric in contemporary clothing trends.

According to them,ย Aso-oke, a traditional Yoruba textile, hand-woven by artisans in southwest Nigeria, is now popularly integrated into trendy styles by designers,ย making it more versatile for modern and youth-oriented fashion.

They noted that, as its popularity soars, so is its price. But for many, no price is too high to wear a piece of culture with pride.

NAN reports that โ€˜Aso-okeโ€™, which literally means โ€˜top clothโ€™ in Yoruba, has been an age-long symbol of prestige, culture, and artistry.

This hand-woven fabric was traditionally worn for major events like weddings, coronations, and festivals, with each colour and pattern reflecting its own meaning.

Before now, theย fabric, well-appreciated for its durability and intricate designs, was less appealing to younger generations.

However, with the flux nature ofย the fashion industry, this timeless andย historic fabric has found its way into the wardrobeย of fashion enthusiasts, influencers and designers who are giving it a fresh and modern style.

Mr Ademola Akanji, a fashion designer in Gwarimpa, said Aso-oke has met a fusion with modern materials as designers now combine it with contemporary textiles to create versatile fusion pieces that are appealing to a wider and younger audience.

According to him, the trendy resurgence of the fabric is traceable to its embrace by celebrities and social media showcases.

Another designer in Wuse Zone 6, Ngozi Mbah, said Aso-oke has gained global recognition through cultural events and increased international visibility because of the ingenuity of modern designers who are combining it with western fabrics in styling.

Mrs Joan Ade, a spar owner and vendor of fabrics, said traditional garment designers are now incorporating Aso-oke into other modern styles, and even accessories, making it an everyday fashion.

โ€œYou know our designers are more creative these days, and one unique thing about this Aso-oke is that there is no style you canโ€™t make with it.

โ€œNo matter how simple your dress is, a little blend of Aso-oke will redefine your style and give it a unique and beautiful look that other people will like,โ€ she said.

Amanda Ekwuru, a make-up artist and runway model said: โ€œI think Aso-oke has become more popular in recent times because many celebrities have started using it.

โ€œRemember Meghan Markle, Wife of Prince Harry, wore a dress featuring Aso-oke fabric during her visit to Nigeria last year.

โ€œAso-oke is no longer just for weddings and special events, it has made a big comeback in everyday fashion and you can see it in the form of street-wear, casual wear, and even accessories.

Mary Fashae, Chief Executive Officer, Funmi Fabric Collection said: โ€œThe primary consumer of Aso-oke these days are the youths, both male and female, no one is left behind.

โ€œIts sudden popularity has also increased its price, and now the wholesale price for a bundle is now N8,000 while people reselling, sell it for N13,000 or N15,000.

โ€œBefore in my shop, I sold Aso-oke once in three months, people hardly ask for it. But now, in a day you can get ten customers requesting to buy Aso-oke.โ€

Adun Moridiat, a fashion designer and owner of Adun Couture, said: โ€œIt is not just the Yoruba people alone that are using Aso-okeย now.

โ€œDifferent tribes are using the fabric. In fact, there was a woman here this afternoon, she came in with Ankara and Aso Oke, demanding that I combine both fabrics, and guess what? She is from Kaduna.

โ€œIn fact, people are using Aso-oke to sew trousers, jackets, gowns and even bagsโ€™โ€™.

Oyedokun Abiodun-Samson, owner of De-Aboyek Distinct Unisex Fashion Creator, said besides its aesthetic value, the trend was further fuelled by the fabricโ€™s inherent durability.

โ€œAso-oke is one Yoruba fabric that can never go out of style because it does not get torn or damage easily, like other fabrics. You can still wear the one you bought 30 years back.

โ€œFew years ago,ย if a customer bought Aso-oke, they mostly requested Agbada for man or โ€œIro and Bubaโ€™โ€™ for woman. Butย now, they bring pictures ofย suits, jumpsuits, corset dresses and say, make this for me.

โ€œIn fact, just last month, I finished a bridal train order for Aso-oke corset dresses,โ€ she said.

Victoria Olabisi, a Pastry Chef, said: โ€œAso-oke has broken the chains of ceremonial exclusivity.

โ€œWhat changed is that people decided that they did not have to wait for a wedding, funeral or chieftaincy title ceremonies to wear Aso-oke. It has transitioned into lifestyle wear.

โ€œWe are seeing Aso-oke worn to concerts, art gallery openings and even date nights, and this shift was led by influencers who treated the fabric as a versatile fashion textile, not a costume.โ€™โ€™

Mariam Abubakar, dealer on Aso-oke, said the increasing display of fashion, glitz and glamour by brand influencers and content creators on social media has made the fabric more endearing in recent times.

According to her, when people see celebrities and influencers rocking different designs of the fabric, they get inspired.

โ€œPlatforms like Instagram and TikTok have made it easier for people to showcase Aso-oke in fresh, trendy ways, inspiring the younger generation to embrace it.

โ€œIt represents a blend of tradition and style, proving that culture and fashion can evolve together,โ€ she said.

No doubt, the resurgence of Aso-oke in contemporary fashion reflects a dynamic fusion of tradition and modernity.

As celebrities, influencers and designers continue to spotlight Aso-oke on local and international platforms, its revival not only celebrates Nigeriaโ€™s rich artistry but also reinforces the timeless relevance of the traditional fabric. (NAN)(www.nannews,ng)

Edited by Rotimi Ijikanmi

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